Monnow Source Walk
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Taking In the Source of the river Monnow
Starting on the Open Access Cefn Hill (486M), meaning below the ridge, in Herefordshire, the Monnow Source Walk is a landscape walk that takes in the source of the River Monnow, one of the Wye's main tributaries, at 42 miles (68KM). From the hill, it flows south-south-east into the Wye at Monmouth. Cefn Hill itself offers up superb views of the Monnow Valley and incredible views of the eastern escarpment of the Black Mountains. The source of the Monnow is, according to the Environment Agency, on Cefn Hill. Many believe it to be Hay Bluff, but the study shows otherwise. The headwaters as a whole though, cover a large area.
Cefn Hill is a nature reserve, playing host to rare plants and animals. In the valley is Craswall Priory, a Grandmontine priory in Herefordshire, England, at grid reference SO27253770, dating from 1220 to 1225. There's not a great deal of the priory left, but it is historically significant. See below.
One of the rivulets sprouting from the many springs on the hillside.
One of the rivulets sprouting from the many springs on the hillside.
Standing at the south eastern edge of the common overlooking the Monnow Valley. Skirrid Fawr can be viewed from here.
Standing at the south eastern edge of the common overlooking the Monnow Valley. Skirrid Fawr can be viewed from here.
One of the many species of Fungi to be found on the hill.
One of the many species of Fungi to be found on the hill.
Monnow Source Overview
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Distance: 4 Miles from the Car Park. Grid Ref: SO 27811 39923
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Distance 10 Miles if using the bus. It can be done (see below).
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Elevation: 203 m, Car Park
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Start point: Either Cefn Hill or Dorstone (See car park)
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Summit Grid Ref: SO270391
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Source Grid Ref: SO 27173 38034
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Walk grade: Moderate (Grade 2.5)
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Best time: Spring/Summer/Autumn
Section 1
At the entrance to Cefn Hill Grid Ref: there is a notice board. In the vicinity are verges to park the car. For walkers climbing off a bus it will be a few KM in from Dorstone - see bus details below - we've done it, it's an enjoyable trek.
From the notice board step onto the hill, which is a Herefordshire Wild Trust reserve. This must be one of the easiest hills with all the views, which you'll see once you crest the hill - just handrail the woodland boundary to your right for 1KM - it flattens out on top with a forest gate to your right. Ignore the gate and bear left.
On the ridge you can't miss the views of Hay Bluff and the Eastern escarpment of the Black Mountains. They're some of the best of the range as the mountain ridge stretches south towards Pandy, forming the Monnow Valley. Walking the common, birds to spot are curlew, snipe, skylark and meadow pipit.
After 400 meters drop down to your right, still handrailing the woodland to your right. Once at the bottom you'll meet with a boundary. Cross over the boundary left or south-east into the field towards Abbey Farm and Craswall Priory. You'll be crossing the streams and springs of the Monnow,. Check your map.
Section 2
Now handrailing a right hand boundary you'll be crossing the streams and springs of the Monnow above Park Wood. After 300 meters you'll come across a well worn working track. Follow it to Abbey Farm. Once there bear right and walk through the farm yard beyond until you come to some sheds. Opposite is Craswall Priory. There's not much left, but it's likely the pool there is the remains of a larger pool that was no doubt stocked with fish in the early medieval period. Double back through the farm bearing right around the last shed opposite the house and into the field. Head straight up handrailing the boundary on the right to the corner. Once there follow the boundary on your left to the corner and cross over the common, taking a b-line for Newhouse Farm.
Section 3
Passing through Newhouse Farm it's an easy walk along a gravel track to the public right of way into the field on your left - about 400 meters. Cross the field with a tree line to your right and emerge onto the road. Bear left for 1.5KM passing immediately over the Eascley Brook a tributary of the Monnow and then passing Tyuchaf Farm. Note the slate on the farm - all local materials.
The lane is very quite with hardly any traffic. Eventually it leads into Hay-On-Wye via Cusop Hill. Enjoy the stroll.
Spec N Stats
Start: Cefn Hill entrance near Wern Agavenny Elevation: 203 Meters Distance: 4 Miles from the car park Time: 01: 20 Hours/Car - 04:30/Bus Walking Grade: 2.5
Summary
An easy time out on Cefn Hill above the Monnow Valley in Herefordshire, which follows a mix of open common, scrub, field paths and quiet lanes in the river’s upper catchment. The route passes above the recognised source of the River Monnow, before dropping past farms and the remains of Craswall Priory. It continues through farmland and minor roads towards Hay-on-Wye. Expect to kick back with wide views of the Black Mountains, quiet terrain, and a steady but manageable climb and descent.
Some Links
River Monnow: Overall View
Black Mountains: Brief Overview
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Hiking to the Hill Via Bus
The route in from Dorstone is just short of 3 Miles. At a leisurely 01: 15 minute pace and its return (6 miles) we have 02: 30 on the clock. The 4 Mile leisurely route with stops around Cefn Hill adds an additional 02: 00. So, using the bus from Dorstone you'll need 04: 30.
The 39A 10: 15 bus from Hereford arrives at 11: 05. The latest return is 17: 39. This actually gives you 06: 30 hrs. We've done it at a very leisurely pace, stopping regularly to sit, take in the views and kick back. That's what you need when exploring. From Hay-On-Wye it's slightly less time but still very within range.
Cefn Common/Area
Cefn Hill is an open common now part of The Community Commons Project driven by Herefordshire Nature Trust to help restore local common lands and natural spaces. It's an incredble space, not least for its epic views. There has been several cairns, a major prehistoric monument/standing stone, an abandoned post-medieval farmstead site and a possible early ecclesiastical site. That's not all, the hill has a bridleway/restricted byway that's a far out 5 miles long.
Relatively few people are seen here. What you can see are Curlew or hear them, snipe, skylark and meadow pipit as well as colourful waxcap fungi. Also check out the windswept Hawthorn covered in Lichen a sign of clean air. Springs pepper the common, too - good for drinking when filtered. And next door is a large Spruce plantation - not great for biodiversity but it has some pleasant runs and waterfalls.
The Views In Detail
There are a number of things to look out for in and around Cefn Hill. At the start of the walk, Grid Ref: SO277399 there is a notice board telling you all about the common. It's a great point of reference. Just over 1KM in we reach the summit - there is no trig point or cairn. As mentioned look to your front and right. You're looking at Hay Bluff 677M jutting out like the bow of a ship. On its right and peaking out from its side is Twmpa at 690M. In the distance beyond the Bluff and Twmpa is the faint outline of Corn Du and Pen-Y-Fan. See photo below.
Looking directly down the Monnow valley to the south, cast your eyes right - there's one fold in the escarpment and then another. The first is the location for the Black Hill or the Cats Back summit/trig and the second is its approach or ridge. Beyond it out of view is the Olchon Valley. Look further along to the next fold in the escarpment - you'll notice a scar in the steep slope and what appears to be a lip. This is the Black Darren Grid Ref: SO296296, an ice age landslip with a spur to the left. It's a good walk.
The ridge from the Bluff keeps going passed the Olchon Valley and Black Darren until it reaches Pandy. It's known as the Hatterall Ridge, an anglicized name that has mutated over centuries since its first and original name At y Heu. Following the ridge is the Offa's Dyke Path.
In the Monnow Valley below is Craswall Priory and Longtown/Longtown Castle. The latter is roughly beneath and just beyond the Black Darren. Use some binos to get your bearings. To the east is the rest of Herefordshire.
Just below the summit of the hill, looking at Hay Bluff, Pen Y Fan and the central Brecon Beacons beyond.
Just below the summit of the hill, looking at Hay Bluff, Pen Y Fan and the central Brecon Beacons beyond.
Other Points Of Interest
Springs & Waterfalls
We love wells and springs. As long-distance backpackers it's always a welcome sight to come across, especially if it's high on the enchanting scale. There are a few in the immediate area of Cefn Hill besides the springs dotting the hill itself.
1) Across the way into the Olchon Valley is St Thomas'. Complete with a tin cup the water is plentiful as it emerges out of rock and into a small pool.
2) Further down the Monnow Valley is St Clodock's Well. Rising from beneath a slab of rock it's named after a 5th century missionary prince who was killed by a rival in love. The spring can be found by the footpath opposite the church on the opposite side of the river.
As for waterfalls there is a nice drop on the edge of Newhouse wood created by a tributary of the Dulas Brook as it heads for the Wye at Hay-on-Wye. It's onn a right of weay so easily viewable. Check the link out for details.
Longtown Castle
10 KM into the Monnow Valley from Cefn Hill summit is Longtown Castle. The Olchon Brook flows into the Monnow nearby. Originally the site was used by the Romans as they made their way into Wales. It was established in the 11th century by Walter de Lacy, and then rebuilt in stone by Gilbert de Lacy after 1148. For what remains it's worth checking out.
Stepping through the entrance of Longtown Castle into the inner Bailey.
Stepping through the entrance of Longtown Castle into the inner Bailey.
Trails Nearby
The Twin Trail a trail that explores the discovery of ley lines as it meanders through two river valleys - Monnow and Dore - to remote churches, castles, sacred stones and far-out summits. Off's Dyke Path, already mentioned, which is a 177 mile long-distance path along the border with England and Wales. Spectacular back country walking. And the Golden Valley Pilgrims Way, a 66 mile route starting and finishing at Hereford Cathedral, but passing through the Golden and the Monnow Valleys. A rural thru hike that allows you to bivvy down in ancient churches. How cool is that?
Chilled Drinks or Warm Brew In The Area
Nearby Craswall Prior at the head of the Monnow Valley is the Bulls Head. Retaining much of its old-school spirit you can get good food here and some good beverage. Further into the valley is Longtown with the Crown Inn. Again a back country pub it's offers food, drink and a warm welcome. A mile or so past Longtown is Clodock with the Cornwall Arms a Grade II listed, 17th-century country pub. This is proper oldschool with flagstone floor, no TV and a serving hatch.
The Cornewall Arms in Clodock in Herefordshire is a real time warp. Lovely.
The Cornewall Arms in Clodock in Herefordshire is a real time warp. Lovely.
A If you want go into town check out Hay-ON-Wye a few miles north - north west of Cefn Hill.